Pennine Way Day 2

“The sweet melody of the dawn chorus wakes me gently the next morning” / “I am rudely awakened by the raucous clamour of a million twittering sparrows at 0430” (delete as appropriate)

The hood of my sleeping bag is forced tightly over my ears so I can try and grab another hour of sleep. It is cold this morning as I crawl out into the world. Nothing remains of the pizza crust I left for the birds, and I make a mental note to offer food only after I have woken up in the future, but not now, the two pieces of pizza I have left make a cold but needed early breakfast. The tent next to mine has a dog, Arthur, he watches every bite jealously. Tough luck pooch, I am starving.

By 6:45 the tent is packed up and I am gingerly squeezing back into my size 9’s and squaring up to lump. Those 2 kgs I got rid of can’t have returned can they? This thing feels no lighter. I give myself a strict talking to, then promise myself a tea and a butty if I get on with it. I put my head down and head up hill, in 200yards I rejoin the Pennine way. Time for a rest.

I have a phone signal! I call Kate.

“How are you?”

“Doing Great!, No problem. Easy peasy this old Pennine Way” I lie convincingly.

“Liar, take care, miss you”

“Miss you too” I say, truthfully.

From this point, and for the rest of the day, I am back on home turf, though odly the home turf I recall isn’t quite this big. The map details Black Tor, Rakes Rocks, Oakenclough Brook and The Castles (I always thought these were called Laddow Rocks). With a day pack this route is not a major challenge, with lump it feels to be a ponderous nightmare. After several “stop and catch your breath” halts, I get to Oakenclough Brook, and stop to take on water. Without a care for its own safety, the bite valve for my camel takes a dive into oblivion over the edge of the cliff. “Heck!, I chunter to myself” / “Something stronger, I voice to the world” (delete as appropriate).

Lump is shrugged off and I make a daring rescue. Details will not be given, Kate will not be pleased with my exploits at this point! Unscathed I load lump back on and I plough on. If Snoopy is open, there is a bacon butty with my name on it. If snoopy is open, if snoopy is, if snoopy, snoopy is. It becomes a chant. The path to Black Hill never felt so long. A steady climb, but oh so long today. The sun is out and it is glorious. I’m getting very hot, and of course, without the bite guard the camel would uncomfortable to drink from, so that was worthwhile. Great views out over Lancashire.

At last, the trig point. Its a welcome site. I have been here often.

It is less than 2 miles to bacon butty heaven, call it 40 minutes then.

The descent is torture on knees and feet. I adopt yesterdays technique of using my poles like a walking frame for the lame. The first of two small rivers is crossed, and the steep slope dealt with. Rest. The second, forded. Rest. Up hill, ever up hill. It takes over 2 hours to get to the tea van. I have been walking 5 hours.

“Bacon, two eggs, popped please. and a tea”. My well rehearsed order is met with a smile and in next to no time I am handed the food of the God’s. With each glorious bite I close my eyes. I don’t gulp it down, each bite is a delicacy to be savoured.

I indulge myself with a second cuppa, and sit down. I give half an hour to a peaceful, relaxing lunch. No chance. An argument erupts, and I end up involved. Someone (southern by his accent) is spouting off about how “…the tea van should be nearer the Pennine way, which is 1/2 a mile in that direction” (he vaguely points down the road). It isn’t, we are on it, but he is determined. I show him the sign, not 20 yards away. “Well, they moved it since I was last here. ..and another thing…” At which point I decide I m going to move too, and off I go. Down to Wessenden Head Res.

Time for a rest

This time as well as lump, I remove boots and socks too. I pour water on my feet. They sizzle. New pair of socks and carefully replace my boots. Not a moment too soon. I am descended upon by “Jolyon”. Jolyon is a 56 year old whirlwind of a hiker, who is also “doing the Pennine Way”. We decide to walk together awhile.

Crikey! I know he has slowed his pace for me, but I am nearly running to keep up. Between gulps of air I have a good stab at holding a conversation, but as we head up to Wessenden moor I’m done for.We exchange details and he is away. Time for a rest.

In the distance I see Jolyon has found a new companion. Oddly, I seem to be catching up. As I get closer the pair split. One hares off, the other doesn’t. And so, I am able to catch up to Mary. Mary is not built for speed, she is built for being Jolly, and that she is by the bucket load. She asks me to pass her a water bottle from her pack pocket, and after taking a quick sip she stows it away in her ample bosom. After routing around in there for a while she produces a banana. A beam lights her face and she scoffs it in a mere 3 bites. The skin vanishes over a gully. I have no chance to comment. Mary is on day 3 of her trek, and her story pauses only briefly as we meet a family sunbathing. The sight of sun worshippers on the beach of Black Moss Reservoir stuns her to silence for the briefest of moments before launching into her tale again with a new audience. As the Pennine way joins up with the Standedge trail I let her go on ahead as I make a call to Kate.

“What would you say to having your husband at home for the night?”

” I suppose so”

Collection of one weary traveller arranged. Tonight is B&B 🙂

My bed, My breakfast

 

 

My Diary of the first day walking the Pennine Way. 

The coverage for phones is sketchy at best, so I gave up trying to blog after the first disastrous attempt, where all the photos vanished. Instead, I wrote a diary with pencil and paper. I will, over the next few days rewrite these diary entries onto the blog. Day 1 follows:

Continue reading My Diary of the first day walking the Pennine Way. 

All the gear! “no idea?”

Kit being worn, about 5 pounds

Just basics, Trousers, merino T, socks, hat, briefs. Adding a layer with a wool jumper if its cool, and a windproof top.

Also in the pic are gaiters, walking poles and Pack. Not shown are my boots.

This is the kit I am carrying on my trek. Total weight about 35 pounds.

I have seen reference to a “sleep system” which I find amusing, its my bed.

Continue reading All the gear! “no idea?”

How much is too much? Packing for the Pennine Way. Why am I even doing this?

Do we need more “stuff” as we get older? Is it just that as we accumulate more, those things become necessary? Whatever the reason, my pack is too heavy. I got around to having a trial pack last night. 45 pounds.

Based on this, I think that maybe I don’t need 3 pairs of spare trousers, 8 pairs of socks and food for 7 days. I can cope with 1 spare pair, and resupply food every other day. Or can I? What if ‘X’ and what if ‘Y’ ? I am starting to overthink this 🙁

I unpacked everything, and walked away. Time to look at my motivation for walking the Pennine Way and how I would like to walk it.

Continue reading How much is too much? Packing for the Pennine Way. Why am I even doing this?

Calderdale Way Day 4 – Unexpected Delight

This is a part of the Calderdale Way. Link to the Calderdale Way Page

 

Calderdale way Stone Chair to West Vale GPX

I was reluctant to walk this section. I looked at the map and saw very little to excite me, it is even on a different OS map to the rest of the Calderdale Way (288 The first 3 days were on OL21)

I was wrong, this is a very special section…

Continue reading Calderdale Way Day 4 – Unexpected Delight

Spirit of Kinder Day at Edale Village Hall

As I noted in Yesterday’s post, today in Edale, Ramblers and the general public were invited to celebrate “spirit of Kinder Day”, at the Village Hall.

I considered taking the train to Edale, but in the end I drove over, and got the last parking space. I was a mere 20 yards from the Village Hall, with 10 minutes to spare. I walked in to find every seat taken, and the audience spilling out of the door to the car park. I would say it was well attended. I carved out a small corner at the back of the hall and set up my camera. Much of the footage was backs of heads, as the crowds kept piling in, but hey, I tried.

The meeting began with a talk by National Trust boss Dame Helen Ghosh,

regarding the huge amount of work that has been undertaken with the restoration of Kinder Scout. Dame Helen said that she felt “very much at home” among today’s audience.

Following on, we were enthralled by Stephen Trotter, Director of the Wildlife Trusts, England, and former manager of the NT’s High Peak estate. One of the team who made the transformation happen. A transformation that involved the return of 40,000 sheep to their farmers, although this could have been just 2,000 sheep being continually recycled.

Our next speaker, Jon Stewart, General Manager of the National Trust in the Peak District, showed just how involved the National Trust is in this area, and how the future can be shaped for the benefit of the wider community. He mentioned how investment from Big Utility companies helps with the vision for a healthy and sustainable landscape.

Vanessa Griffiths, new Chief Executive of The Ramblers spoke with passion about the area.

The past came to life for me as she described the workers from Sheffield turning up on the 24th April 1932 for the violent clash of the mass trespass. She mentioned Tom Stevenson, first paid member of the Ramblers (also creator of the Pennine Way). Her 20 minute talk was fascinating, I may almost be tempted to join an activist organisation 🙂

Our last talk was by the President of the Ramblers, the charismatic Stuart Maconie. His talk today was amusing, yet thought provoking.

My favourite part of any gathering has to be a rousing chorus. I was not disappointed. Sally Goldsmith, a Sheffield lass, and folk singer, led us all through one of her own songs and then the finale with everyone joining in to sing “the Manchester Rambler”

Two last things I really must mention. The great job of hosting the event by Master of ceremonies, Rony Robinson. And the launch of a new book, “Clarion Call: Sheffield’s Access Pioneers” a copy of which we saw being presented to all the speakers by the author.

Kinder Scout Mass Trespass Anniversary

On Monday the 24th April it is the 85th Anniversary of the mass trespass of Kinder Scout.

To mark the anniversary, there is an event being held in Edale Town Hall on Saturday the 22nd April. “Spirit of Kinder” Day.

Start time is 2pm, and it is reported that the head of the  Ramblers will be a keynote speaker, along with the head of the National Trust and the Wildlife trust.

This mass march onto the Kinder plateau marked the beginning of a long campaign by The Ramblers’ Association, culminating in the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000, for which we should all be thankful.

It took 68 years to bring this about and have it set in law. It is therefore something everyone who walks the footpaths of England should be proud of.

 

Pennine Way Itinerary

This is my planned itinerary. As with all plans, it is subject to change.

0m             Edale                                                 0m

+3.7m          Kinder Scout     Δ                                  3.7m

+5.5m          A57                                                 9.2m

+2.3m          Bleaklow         Δ                                 11.5m  

+4.5m          Crowden                                            16.0m

First night under canvas, there is a campsite here, or I may push on and camp between Laddow rocks and Black Hill

Day 1  - 16 miles


				

Continue reading Pennine Way Itinerary

Pen-Y-Finally

Three weekends ago, I made an attempt on Pen-Y-Ghent with Dave. We were not successful. I believe we made the right decision to abandon the attempt, but on the first available day, Sunday, we decided to have another crack at it.

This will be my 4th climb of Pen-Y-Ghent, the first two for the Yorkshire Three Peaks, the third we have discussed enough. Not once I have I actually seen the hill. It has always been shrouded in cloud, or hidden behind some weather. The day was glorious. Weather reports unbelievably good, both of us ready for it. Continue reading Pen-Y-Finally